This book is a memoir of his adolescence, of the disintegration of his family, and growing up in Florida in the 70s. But mostly it's about his passion for and obsession with surfing. I remember reading it in two or three days--it was totally engrossing, and not just because I was reading about someone I knew. A Google search reveals that he was a Guggenheim fellow in 2008, which he used to work on a novel. I look forward to reading it when it is published.
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